Grandmother's Panadea

How many times we throw away bread ? My grandmother used to cook this soup with bread that would be otherwise wasted : she was an amazing cook but she did not have all the facilities we have today , though....she could make a perfect fry in the fireplace ( she knew what kind of wood to use , and how big or little it should be to keep a constant fire ). I love this soup , it's creamy , full of savor , you wouldn't say it's made with nothing more than bread ! It takes long to cook but that's the secret , after 2 hours you'll see the changes , a sort of chemical transformation , a tasteful smell begins spreading out of the kitchen...a smell of home . In the meantime you won't need to stay beside the pan , just mix few times and that's all . Last time I cooked it I added some boiled  spinach that were left in the frigidaire and I must say ....it was even better .

Ingredients : bread , water the quantity you'll need to cover the bread as in the photo below ( or half water & half stock ,vegetable or meat :if you add some  stock it'll be more tasteful)

extravirgin olive oil , parmigiano cheese , freshly ground black pepper

I won't give you quantities , as you can do by yourself , you can calculate half a tablespoon of oil x each  and parmigiano and pepper as you like it .

Cut the bread into pieces ( I had baguettes ) put it into a pan , add water or half water/half stock : bread will raise so you 'd better control the level of water  by keeping it down with a spoon , because if there's too much liquid it won't be good . Let cook gently for at least two hours , till it becomes 'velouté' as in the photo above , while stirring from time to time to help becoming "creamy" . Season with pepper , oil and Parmigiano ( or a Gruyere if you don't find it ) and serve hot . Bon Appetit ! 

French version

Semifreddo al Radicchio di Treviso

Un dessert con il Radicchio di Treviso
Dopo la visita a Lorenzo siam tornati in Provenza con un bel po di Radicchio Tardivo e cosi ieri sera abbiamo invitato degli amici per una cena all’insegna del Radicchio dall’inizio alla fine ( con doppio dessert ...)
Menu della serata :
Spritz con crostini al guanciale
Risotto al Radicchio
Millefoglie di zucca ,radicchio e capretto " confit"
Insalata di tre radicchi ( Verona rosa ,Treviso e Castelfranco)
Semifreddo di Radicchio
Frittelle al Radicchio

La ricetta del semifreddo l'ho trovata qui anche se il libro é ormai difficile da reperire .Ho fatto alcune variazioni al’’originale e questa é la mia versione: é un dessert delicato e leggero, la dolcezza soave della base si sposa con l’amaro appena percettibile del Radicchio e la croccantezza del cioccolato.
Ingredienti :
150 gr di Radicchio Tardivo di Treviso( nell’originale era il Castelfranco )
2 albumi
130 gr di zucchero
20 gr d'acqua
250 gr di panna fresca
50 gr di cioccolato fondente al 70% ( io avevo ancora un po di quello di Modica )
Un pizzico di sale
Un pizzico di Pepe Lungo pestato al mortaio
Tagliate il radicchio in piccoli pezzi e fatelo brasare in una padella con 20 gr di zucchero fino a che sarà ben asciutto. Lasciate raffreddare . In un pentolino mettete il restante zucchero con 20 gr d’acqua ,fate bollire fino alla temperatura di 121° ( vi servirà un termometro ) nel frattempo montate i albumi a neve ben ferma con il pizzico di sale (data la quantità esigua sconsiglio la planetaria , meglio il normale frullino elettrico ) .Una volta montati agggiungete a filo lo sciroppo bollente( calcolare bene i tempi ...) e continuare a montare fino a raffreddamento .
Otterrete la cosidetta  Meringa Italiana (nella ricetta originale erano solo bianchi montati con lo zucchero ma non amo usare le uova crude nei dessert ). A questo punto incorporate alla meringa il radicchio , il cioccolato a scaglie il pepe e la panna montata ben soda ,amalgate bene il tutto con delicatezza per non smontare , versatela preparazione in stampini di silicone da porzione ( otterrete circa 8 porzioni ) e mettete nel congelatore .

Lo sciroppo di Radicchio
200 gr di zucchero
60 gr d’acqua
50 gr di Radicchio
Mettete tutti gli ingredienti nel pentolino , fate andare a fuoco non troppo forte fino ad avere uno sciroppo abbastanza denso .Lasciate raffreddare
Per servire : sformate il semifreddo su un piatto da dessert e versate attorno e sopra un po di sciroppo .

Lamb's stew of Avignon

I discovered this ancient provençal recipe on the book "De l'agneau de Provence" by Robert Eymony ,that I knew some years ago .He offered me his book that's not only about recipes but much about the importance of sheeps and lambs in Provençal civilization. I taught this recipe during a cooking-class in Goult's Castle (you can find Tarte Tatin here )

La Daube d’Avignon  (l’abodo avignonnenco)

For 6 servings

1,200 gr of lamb’s meat chopped in squares of about  4 cm

700 gr of yellow onions

700 gr of carrots

100 gr of lard  roughly chopped

120 gr of thin-chopped onion

120 gr of thin-chopped carrot

A piece about 5cm of length of orange peel (organic !! )

Bouquet garni ( thyme & laurel)

250ml of red wine

1 tablespoon of extra virgin olive oil

Salt ,freshly grounded  blackpepper, 1 garlic clove

Put the lard , the chopped onions & carrots and the oil in a frying pan,let cook gently for about 15 mn , without burning

Then add this mixture in a large saucepan , put on the fire , add the meat and stir over medium heat for 4/5 minutes , add the onions and carrots chopped , the orange peel ,1 teaspoon of salt ( you can taste at the end if it’s enough ) the ‘ bouquet garni’ and the wine ,mix everything ,reduce the heat to the lowest setting Cover the pan and cook slowly for 2/3 hours until the meat is tender .Taste the salt and add the pepper.

You can serve with some rice or mashed potatoes
Note : if you have an hearthenware pan you can cook in the oven , covered , at 120° for 4 hours or till the meat is tender ( it depends on the quality of the meat )

Mashed  potatoes x6

1kg of potatoes ( bjinties is the best for mashing )

Salt

Pinch of nutmeg

Milk  about 250 ml

30gr of butter

Peel the potatoes , cut them in 4 , cook in a steam till soft. Warm the milk , mash the potatoes in a saucepan , add the butter , a teaspoon of salt and the milk ( add little by little ) stir at a medium heat , flavor with the nutmeg ,taste the salt ad serve hot.

Con questa ricetta partecipo al contest

Il Radicchio Tardivo di Treviso or : Lorenzo's Radicchio

Radicchio has been around for quite some time: Pliny mentions the marvelous red-lined lettuces of the Veneto region in his Naturalis Historia, noting that in addition to being tasty they're good for insomnia and purifying the blood; he also says it was the Egyptians who bred radicchio from its more wild ancestor, chicory. In the Middle Ages it was especially popular among monks, who welcomed anything that would add zest and flavor to the simple, predominately vegetarian diets proscribed by their orders. Not that the plant was limited to monastic kitchens; it also figured prominently on the tables of nobles, both cooked and raw: In 1537 Pietro Aretino advised a friend who had a garden to plant it, saying he much preferred it to "aroma-free lettuce and endive."
While tasty, this radicchio isn't the radicchio rosso we know today: the modern radicchio with its rich wine-red white-ribbed leaves was developed in the 1860s by Francesco Van Den Borre, a Belgian agronomist who applied the techniques used to whiten Belgian endive to the plants grown around Treviso. The process, which is called imbianchimento, is quite involved: the plants are harvested in late fall, their outer leaves are trimmed and discarded, they're packed into wire mesh baskets, and they're stood for several days in darkened sheds with their roots bathed in steadily circulating spring water that emerges from the ground at a temperature of about 15 C (60F). As they bathe the leaves of the hearts of the radicchio plants take on the pronounced wine-red color that distinguishes them (the deeper the red the more pleasingly bitter the plant). At this point the farmer unties the bunches, strips away the outer leaves and, trims the root (the tender part that's just below ground level is tasty), and sends the radicchio to the market.
I found this text here, it’s very interesting and you can find recipes also.

So, this is a short history of Radicchio Tardivo di Treviso a wonderful vegetable that grows in the region of Venice. Last week we were in Italy and we went to see my friend Lorenzo who’s a farmer producing Organic Radicchio and we had the chance to arrive on Monday, that’s the day they are “cleaning” Radicchio before to send it to be sold.

 We had the feeling to enter into another time, another century maybe: when Radicchio comes to our tables we only see a marvelous edible flower but we don’t know anything about the great work that’s beside it . I took some photos so that everybody can see the hard work and the love & passion of these men .

The Radicchio is harvested

The Harvest

Radicchio is stocked in the basket & into spring water  

Radicchio has grown up in the darkness and now is ready to be cleaned

Cleaning up : a big work!

 We had really good time learning so much about the history of Radicchio, drinking hot red spiced wine, talking with these men so simple and so wise .
Lorenzo doesn’t have a website but if you want to buy his Radicchio I’ll be glad to give you his contacts, just ask me, I know he can deliver in Europe also, in some cases.

Hot spiced wine

The final result : amazing !!!

And as a Radicchio of such quality lasts about  2 weeks in the frigidaire ,we bought 5 Kilos that we took with us in Goult , so ...

 we had it like this

 and with white polenta

Stewed Radicchio with cheese

For 4 servings : 4 plants of radicchio roughly chopped  , 1 scallion , 2 spoons of extra-virgin olive oil ,  pinch of salt , freshly ground white pepper ( malabar ) 1 tablespon of Cognac , 200 gr of  Cheese chopped ( I used Asiago cheese from Italy but you can use also a good Gruyére or a  Comté )

Cut the scallion very fine , put in a pan with the oil and swimmer gently , add the salt , stir frequently ,after about 10 minutes add the cognac , let the alchool evaporate , then put the Radicchio chopped  and cook while stirring , till it's softened and has changed his colour from red to a light brown ( you'll need 3/4 minutes ) then cover the Radicchio with the cheese , put a lid ,turn off the fire and wait till the cheese has melted  . Serve immediatedly with roasted polenta ( just cut cold polenta in slices and put on a grill-pan till roasted , if you don't find the white one yu can use thee yellow )    

Tagliatelle al cacao con ragù d'agnello speziato

            Tagliatelle al cacao con ragù d’agnello alle spezie

Ecco  una ricetta che feci il mese scorso : sto lavorando a delle ricette con
l'agnello per un allevatore d'agnelli (guardate qui) nel Luberon e pensavo a un ragù bianco profumato di spezie , per accompagnarlo decisi di fare  delle tagliatelle al cacao e l'abbinata é risultata felice : un matrimonio perfetto tra la dolcezza della carne d'agnello profumata di   spezie e il leggero amertume della pasta con il cacao   . Il contest di MT di questo mese aveva per tema ...Le
tagliatelle

Perfetto per partecipare ( e cosi ho " dovuto" scrivermi" la ricetta )

Dosi per 6 persone:

per la pasta:

380 gr di farina O

20 gr di cacao amaro in polvere di ottima qualità

4 uova medie

Per il sugo

500 gr dI carne d’agnello macinata grossa o tagliata a coltello (  io ho usato parti del collo e della pancia , le più saporite)

3 cucchiai d’olio evo

1 cucchiaino di fior d sale

1 bacca di pepe lungo

6/7 grani di pepe selvatico del Madagascar ( voatsyperifery)

1 pizzico di cannella grattugiata di fresco

1 scalogno

1 spicchio d’aglio

5/6 bacche di ginepro

½ gambo di sedano

½ bicchiere di vino bianco passito ( un moscato sarebbe perfetto)

Setacciare assieme la farina e il cacao , fare una cavità nel mezzo , rompervi le uova , mescolare le uova con la punta delle dita o una forchetta incorporando la farina a poco a poco , aggiungere un po d’acqua se l’impasto fosse troppo asciutto . Una volta amalgamato bene il tutto lavorare con entusiasmo per 5/6 minuti , fino a che sentirete la pasta divenire più “ malleabile” . A questo punto copritela con una ciotola e lasciate riposare un’ora  Nel frattempo dedicatevi al ragù .
Ho la fortuna di disporre di un Kenwood  e percio posso tritare la carne da me e siccome dispongo di un cerchio con dei grossi fori ,che mi danno un risultato molto simile al taglio a coltello , utilizzo questo . Devo dire che lo spessore della carne é importante ,se é troppo fine abbiamo una perdita di consistenza e di gusto .

My loved kenwood

Tagliate lo scalogno , l’aglio e il sedano in mirepoix , mettete un cucchiaio d’olio nella pentola dove cuocerete il ragù , aggiungete la mirepoix e ponete a fuoco medio , mescolando spesso . Come le verdure cominciano ad appassire aggiungere un po di fior di sale , le spezie (la noce moscata e la cannella grattuggiate, le bacche di ginepro intere). In una padella larga versate ½ cucchiaio d’olio , fate scaldare e buttate la carne . Lasciate rosolare a fuoco non troppo forte fino a che sarà asciugata , quindi sfumate con il vino passito  e unite al soffritto . Lasciate cuocere coperto per un paio d’ore aggiungendo un po d’acqua se necessario.Controllate il sale . A fine cottura aggiungete il resto dell’olio e i due pepi pestati al mortaio , mescolate bene il tutto.

Mentre il sugo cuoce preparate le tagliatelle : tirate la pasta con il mattarello ( personalmente non vado d’accordo con la macchinetta per la pasta e poi il mattarello funziona sempre )  per il procedimento vi rimando pure io al blog di Ale anche perché  non potrei farlo meglio e sono pure in ritardo con la ricetta !

Cuocete le tagliatelle in abbondante acqua salata , spadellate con il ragù , aggiungendo eventualmente un po d'acqua di cottura della pasta e ...buon appetito !

                                  Con questa ricetta partecipo al contest di gennaio di MT

Tarte Tatin at the Castle

Tarte Tatin is a big classic of French desserts . I was not a fan of it really ( I prefered the 'Tarte fine aux pommes' ) it seemed to me too "heavy" but I had many people asking me for it so I had to . And I was surprised : it's so good ! Naturally ....you have to do yourself the dough , otherwise with the industrials ones you can buy it won't be the same, but it's a very easy recipe and it really does take only few minutes to make it ! Just few weeks ago I tought some young "ladies" how to make it ( and others provençal recipes I 'll post ) it's a pity I don't have any photo of the lesson ,as they were staying the Castle of Goult for their holidays , and the place is very charming ! If you click on the link you can even see the kitchen where we had the cooking-class. It's a wonderful place and I live just a few meters from there .

For  6 servings

Short crust pastry

250 gr of plain flour

125 gr of cold unsalted butter diced

1 teaspoon of salt

4/6 tbsp of  cold sparkling water

Place the flour, the salt and the butter in a bowl , mix with your fingertips until the mixture is like breadcrumbs, add 4tbsp of water and stir until the dough comes together, if it seems too dry add some water .Knead the dough lightly into a bal , wrap in cling film and chill for at least 1 hour or overnight .

6/8 apples ( depends on the size)

100 gr of raw cane sugar

A pinch of cinnamon

50 gr of butter

Peel the apples (if you find organic ones you don’t need to peel )and cut them in four pieces , in a saucepan (large enough to contains the apples ) put the butter and the sugar and let cook until it begins to caramelize , then add the apples and continue cooking about 4/5 minutes
Preheat the oven at 80° , fill the bottom of a non-stick cake of 24/26 cm round tin with the apples ,then roll out the dough on a floured surface at about 4mm ,make it a bit larger than the cake-tin  cover the apples with the dough ,reenter the sizes of the dough into the tin to form a border , cook in the oven about 35mn or till the dough is golden . take the tarte off , cover with a bigger plate and turn it upside-down as soon otherwise the caramel will stick .Serve “ nature” or with some whipped cream flavored with cinnamon .

Winter's vegetables jelly

Winter’s vegetables jelly as if it were summertime

Last week a friend asked me to prepare a side dish for a T-Bone steak , something very light &fresh, even if we are in the middle of winter here in the South of France …sunny days but cold ! I wanted something summerlike but with seasonal products ,this vegetables jelly surprised me ( it’s really a recipe of mine ) I cooked every vegetable apart but in the same water and at the end I had a gorgeous stock , with which  made the jelly .The result is a colored , savory  and healthy side dish .I think that even children would love it !

Ingredients for 10 servings:

300 gr of pumpkin

200 gr of mushrooms( champignons de Paris)

300 gr of leeks

400 gr of broccoli

200 gr of parsnips

400 gr of spinach

1 liter of stock

30 gr of gelatin leaves  ( or 8 gr of agar-agar )

10 gr of fresh ginger

A little bunch or coriander

Half a lemon

3 teaspoon of salt

Freshly grounded white pepper ( I used a Sarawak)

Wash very well all the vegetables then cut the pumpkin, the leeks, the mushrooms and parsnips into thin slices .In a large stock-pan pour 3 liters of water, the salt and the ginger and bring to boil  You can begin by cooking parsnips and mushrooms : put them in a basket as you see in the photo below and plunge them into the boiling water for 3 / 4 minutes , till they are soft but still crunchy. Then you can go with the pumpkin and leeks , the same way , after retiring the second basket you can pour in the spinach , wait for the stock comes up to the boil , let cook one minute and then draw out from the stock with a holey ladle; soak into cold water and drain ,to stop cooking and keep the color, make the same way  the broccoli :plunge the whole broccoli and let it cook  about 8 minutes , then soak it into cold water as the spinach and drain .

Now that you have all your vegetables ready take one liter of stock and put it in a smaller pan, taste the salt ( it must be savory ) Keep the stock warm and pour in some leaves of coriander ,the juice of half a lemon and the pepper. In the meantime dip the gelatin leaves in cold water till they’ll be smooth , then drain them , mix in the stock( if using agar-agar you’ll have to mix the powder in the stock, bring to boil for 1minute)

Now you are ready to make the last step: take a silicon mould ( a big one of about 2 liters or two smaller  , otherwise you can even do individual portion , pretty nice )

Pour a layer of stock on the bottom and let in the freezer till solid then begin to make layers of vegetables, pouring some stock on each. Play with colors!!When your mould filled pour the last layer of stock .Refrigerate at least 4 hours (agar-agar will thicken earlier about 2 hours)Before serving unmold on a serving plate. You can serve with some sauce that you like, but it must be a cold one .